Julu–Fumin–Changle: the other side of Insta-famous lanes
Skip the photo spots, walk the back streets
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Stops in order
675 Julu Road · Shanghai Writers' Association
Starting point. The former Liu Jisheng residence, designed in 1931 by László Hudec in Italian Renaissance style. The wrought-iron gate ornament is replicated from Hudec's original drawings. Open one day a month.
Lane 889 Julu Road · Jinghua New Village
A 1937 'new-style lane' built by British investors. No. 5 at the back was once home to Soong Ching-ling's secretary Li Peihua. A 2018 cleanup spared the door numbers and the corner shops.
Lane 182 Fumin Road · Fumin New Village
Built 1942, a textbook new-style lane. The four characters at the entrance were calligraphed by Republican-era master Deng Sanmu. The brick patterns inside the doorways remain unwhitewashed.
Lane 570 Changle Road · Pu Garden
A 1942 Spanish-style apartment cluster — eight buildings with curved balconies. Early residents included disciples of Peking Opera star Mei Lanfang. Cafes now share the lane with longtime residents' laundry poles.
Lane 672 Changle Road · Juemin Lane
1928 Cantonese-style shikumen, with '觉民' carved into the door lintel. Deep in the lane, a tailor's shop has run three generations and only takes regular customers.
Shaanxi South Road junction · end of Changle
Endpoint. Shaanxi South Road continues the old French Concession's Avenue Joffre — still the city's densest plane-tree canopy. Wrap up at any of the corner bars.
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