Tianzifang: shikumen, commercialised
How an old shikumen lane became a tourist market
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Stops in order
Dapuqiao metro · Exit 1
Starting point. The metro exit drops you on Taikang Road. Tianzifang's three main lanes — 210, 248, 274 — all open north off this street; we'll walk them east to west.
Lane 210 Taikang Road · entrance
The easternmost and oldest of the three lanes — originally Zhicheng Lane built in 1933. From 2000 painters Chen Yifei, Er Dongqiang and Wang Jieyin moved in; their studios kicked off the makeover that became Tianzifang.
Chen Yifei's former studio
No. 2 in Lane 210. Painter Chen Yifei's studio from 2002 to 2005. The bronze 'Chen Yifei Studio' plate at the door remains. It's a gallery-cafe today. The main artery of Lane 210 lies just deeper in.
Main artery of Lane 210 · the contradiction
The lane is three metres wide, the shikumen on both sides converted into more than 200 small shops. Look up: the second and third floors are still residential — laundry poles share the air with shop signs. This is Tianzifang at its most contradictory, and its most photographable. Several cross-alleys here lead west to Lanes 248 and 274.
Lane 248 · former French Concession needle factory
Cross into Lane 248 — only folded into Tianzifang in 2005, a touch less commercialised. The lane holds the 1920s site of the French Concession's main needle factory, plus a few shops that have run for over a decade — prices still at 2010 levels.
Lane 274 · studios cluster
Continue west into Lane 274, where the original painter studios survive — a few resident designer spaces. You can push the door to look, just don't interrupt the work. Stepping out lands you on the western end of Taikang Road; 200 metres on you can pick up the Bugaoli–Jianguo West route to see what shikumen looks like before the makeover.
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