Wukang–Anfu Road: the classic stretch

Starting point. 1843 Huaihai Road, the southwest corner across from Wukang Mansion. Soong Ching-ling's main residence from 1948 until her death in 1981. Bedroom and study remain as she left them — the last document she worked on still sits on the desk. Tickets ¥20. Step out, look across — Wukang Mansion is right there.

1924, by László Hudec — a French Renaissance ship-shaped apartment originally named Normandie Apartments. The ground-floor cafe still has its 1924 tiles. The famous photo angle is the corner across Huaihai Road — the same side you just came from. Then enter Wukang Road and head north; the street is only 1.2 km long and the residences cluster on both sides.

393 Wukang Road — directly into the lane across from Wukang Mansion. Revolutionary leader Huang Xing came here in 1916 to recuperate and died in this house. A three-storey Spanish-style villa; the second-floor balcony was where he stood for the last time. A bronze plaque marks the door; the interior isn't open.

113 Wukang Road — 400 m further north along Wukang from Huang Xing's house. Writer Ba Jin lived here nearly 50 years from 1955; his Random Thoughts was completed in this house. The magnolia in the garden was planted by his wife Xiao Shan. Free entry, closed Mondays — give it half an hour, then keep heading north.

At the north end of Wukang Road, turn right onto Anfu. Shanghai Theatre Academy students leave their gate on Huashan Road, but Anfu is where they actually hang out. Over 30 small shops on this one street — half opened after 2018: Duo Zhua Yu, % Arabica, Brut Cake. Twenty minutes for photos, twenty for a coffee, twenty for window-shopping is about right.